paseria
The baba au rhum

Stohrer, since 1730 · Since 1730

The baba au rhum

Nicolas Stohrer, pastry chef to the Polish king’s daughter at Versailles, opened his shop on the rue Montorgueil in 1730 and soaked a dry brioche in wine; the baba au rhum that followed is still sold there, and the Riviera palaces serve it from a trolley with a bottle.

Taste profile

Sweet7
Rich6
Fresh2
Crunch1
Bitter2

Pair it with

The rum itself, dark and aged, poured at the table.

Legend has King Stanislas of Poland dunking a dry kugelhopf in wine; his pastry chef Stohrer refined it, and when he followed the king’s daughter Marie to Versailles as queen of France, he opened the shop that still stands. The baba is a yeasted, buttery dough baked in a mould, soaked in a rum syrup and finished with cream. At Stohrer it comes plain or with cream; on the Riviera, at the Louis XV, it arrives on a trolley and the waiter pours the rum of your choice at the table.

The baba is the ancestor of the savarin and of every soaked cake since; it is the guide’s oldest pastry and one of the best.

The home version · serves 6

Ingredients

  • 250 g flour
  • 10 g fresh yeast
  • 3 eggs
  • 80 g butter
  • 20 g sugar, 5 g salt
  • For the syrup: 500 ml water, 250 g sugar, zest of an orange, 100 ml dark rum
  • 200 ml whipping cream, 20 g icing sugar

Method

  1. Dissolve the yeast in a spoon of warm milk, mix with flour, eggs, sugar and salt into a soft dough, beat in the soft butter. Rise one hour.
  2. Fill buttered baba or savarin moulds half full, rise again until doubled, bake at 180 °C for 20 minutes.
  3. Make the syrup: boil water, sugar and orange zest, cool slightly, add the rum.
  4. Soak the babas in the warm syrup until they swell, drain on a rack.
  5. Serve with whipped cream and a small jug of rum to pour at the table.