The master of the mousse
Hidemi Sugino
Hidemi Sugino won the pastry world cup in 1991 and has run his small shop in Kyobashi since 2004, where mousses so delicate they may not leave the salon, the Ambroisie above all, are cut with the precision of a jeweller.
- Currently
- Hidemi Sugino, Kyobashi
- City
- Tokyo
Sugino trained in France in the 1970s, won the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyon in 1991 with the Ambroisie, a pistachio and chocolate mousse cake with raspberry, and opened his shop in Kobe before moving to Tokyo. The Kyobashi salon sells a limited number of pieces a day and refuses to box the most fragile ones, which must be eaten at the counter within minutes.
His style is French classical technique at Japanese exactness: mousses with the minimum of gelatine, fruit at the edge of ripeness, a cake cut so cleanly the layers look drawn. He has trained a generation of Japanese chefs and remains the reference in a city of references.
Sugino is the reason Tokyo belongs in this guide, and the Ambroisie is the piece to plan a morning around.
The path
- 1991
Wins the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie with the Ambroisie
- 1992
Opens in Kobe
- 2004
Moves the shop to Kyobashi, Tokyo
Signature desserts
Hidemi Sugino
Where to taste the work
